It's been nearly a month since I've been here in Beirut and an update is more than overdue. I will try an keep you posted on what is going on in my life - hence the creation of a blog. This undertaking is rather challenging, not just because the initial enthusiasm of giving regular updates normally fades quite quickly, but also because I do not necessarily know, who will follow it and hence who I should address. This brings me to the next point: the language. I intentionally pick English as the writing language as it is the language read by all of you. It will constitute an additional challenge, but I am sure you'll forgive my sometimes very literal translations and the foreign word here and there.
This said, let's get started.
I am currently sitting in a café surrounded by kids celebrating a birthday. Couldn't have picked a better place... I was fleeing the frostiness and humidity of our apartment and was looking for some calm and warmth. Well, at least I found the second one. Coming here, I didn't pack any warm things, assuming - a tiny bit ignorant, I admit - that it would be sunny and warm. Which it is - sometimes at least. Just not these past couple of days. Yesterday, I lost the battle against the storm when walking to work. My umbrella met a sudden death and I got soaked within 2 minutes. Lucky me, it stopped raining as soon as I got to the office. At least there's heating at work. And that's just one of many things that I love about my new office. For those I haven't told yet: work is great. I adore my team and - contrary to pessimistic expectations (you never know) - I am not the lowest person in the hierarchy. There are two interns. Haha. I am taking over the tasks of the JPO (Junior Professional Officer) that left just days before me. For those who aren't familiar with the UN hierarchy (not that I am) this means that I have responsibilities way beyond my actual "degree". Which is fantastic. My team consists of nine people: my boss (who actually is as jolly as he looks on pictures), human rights officers from France, Palestine, Jordan and Lebanon as well as two administrative/office assistants and the two aforementioned interns. I was more than surprised (yes, I admit being slightly prejudiced) that everyone in the office (except one of the interns) speaks Arabic fluently. Which makes staff meetings ever slightly more interesting. As if I didn't like them enough anyway. It's definitely my favourite time of the week. The events in the region ensure that these gatherings take easily more than two hours. I really did pick the perfect time to come here. And to state this clearly: I am fine. Lebanon is fine. There's currently no government to demonstrate against. For those who aren't closely following Lebanese politics: don't start. It's too much a hassle. Short version: in January, a new Prime Minister was appointed after the unity government of Saad Hariri fell apart because of a long dispute over the Special Tribunal for Lebanon. That tribunal was established to investigate the assassination of Rafic Hariri in 2005. The new Prime Minister hasn't been able to put together a new government as different figures fight over the distribution of posts. Don't ask about why and how the then country actually functions. It often doesn't. I really do love living here. But sometimes it gets extremely frustrating. Internet sucks (it's actually one of the slowest in the world). Texting and calling is extremely expensive (and don't even think that iPhones work here. 3G doesn't exist in Lebanon). And there are electricity cuts every day. For three hours. And sometimes for just this extra moment. These facts really stand in stark contrast to the glitzy and fabulous lifestyle that Lebanese live. Another very nasty topic is the traffic. Red isn't red here. And green even less. At least for walking people. I pray every morning not to be hit by one of those fancy BMWs when crossing the street. Which is a challenge in itself. But if you do manage crossing the street alive, you feel like Moses parting the waters. Quite fun if you're successful.
Don't get me wrong, Beirut is fun. There are endless bars and restaurants to be tested and life - despite being very chaotic and unpredictable - is exciting. Our apartment (I live with another Swiss UNV) is located right in the center of action. It's next to one of the most popular streets where one bar (often more holes in the wall) is followed by the other. And it's really spacious, has two huge balconies and if that weren't enough, we can also use the roof. I can see the mountains and the ocean from my window. Yay. It only needs to become a little more homely. But I'm sure that will come.
There is so much more to tell. But this update is already quite long. And I'm exhausted. I attended a 4-hour conference in Arabic today. And yes, I did understand what it was about. But desperately looking for words in the most remote corners of your brain is tiring - and also highly motivating, because I'm realising that I can actually find them.
I will try and update this blog on a regular basis. Promise. Until then, مع سلامة.
This said, let's get started.
I am currently sitting in a café surrounded by kids celebrating a birthday. Couldn't have picked a better place... I was fleeing the frostiness and humidity of our apartment and was looking for some calm and warmth. Well, at least I found the second one. Coming here, I didn't pack any warm things, assuming - a tiny bit ignorant, I admit - that it would be sunny and warm. Which it is - sometimes at least. Just not these past couple of days. Yesterday, I lost the battle against the storm when walking to work. My umbrella met a sudden death and I got soaked within 2 minutes. Lucky me, it stopped raining as soon as I got to the office. At least there's heating at work. And that's just one of many things that I love about my new office. For those I haven't told yet: work is great. I adore my team and - contrary to pessimistic expectations (you never know) - I am not the lowest person in the hierarchy. There are two interns. Haha. I am taking over the tasks of the JPO (Junior Professional Officer) that left just days before me. For those who aren't familiar with the UN hierarchy (not that I am) this means that I have responsibilities way beyond my actual "degree". Which is fantastic. My team consists of nine people: my boss (who actually is as jolly as he looks on pictures), human rights officers from France, Palestine, Jordan and Lebanon as well as two administrative/office assistants and the two aforementioned interns. I was more than surprised (yes, I admit being slightly prejudiced) that everyone in the office (except one of the interns) speaks Arabic fluently. Which makes staff meetings ever slightly more interesting. As if I didn't like them enough anyway. It's definitely my favourite time of the week. The events in the region ensure that these gatherings take easily more than two hours. I really did pick the perfect time to come here. And to state this clearly: I am fine. Lebanon is fine. There's currently no government to demonstrate against. For those who aren't closely following Lebanese politics: don't start. It's too much a hassle. Short version: in January, a new Prime Minister was appointed after the unity government of Saad Hariri fell apart because of a long dispute over the Special Tribunal for Lebanon. That tribunal was established to investigate the assassination of Rafic Hariri in 2005. The new Prime Minister hasn't been able to put together a new government as different figures fight over the distribution of posts. Don't ask about why and how the then country actually functions. It often doesn't. I really do love living here. But sometimes it gets extremely frustrating. Internet sucks (it's actually one of the slowest in the world). Texting and calling is extremely expensive (and don't even think that iPhones work here. 3G doesn't exist in Lebanon). And there are electricity cuts every day. For three hours. And sometimes for just this extra moment. These facts really stand in stark contrast to the glitzy and fabulous lifestyle that Lebanese live. Another very nasty topic is the traffic. Red isn't red here. And green even less. At least for walking people. I pray every morning not to be hit by one of those fancy BMWs when crossing the street. Which is a challenge in itself. But if you do manage crossing the street alive, you feel like Moses parting the waters. Quite fun if you're successful.
Don't get me wrong, Beirut is fun. There are endless bars and restaurants to be tested and life - despite being very chaotic and unpredictable - is exciting. Our apartment (I live with another Swiss UNV) is located right in the center of action. It's next to one of the most popular streets where one bar (often more holes in the wall) is followed by the other. And it's really spacious, has two huge balconies and if that weren't enough, we can also use the roof. I can see the mountains and the ocean from my window. Yay. It only needs to become a little more homely. But I'm sure that will come.
There is so much more to tell. But this update is already quite long. And I'm exhausted. I attended a 4-hour conference in Arabic today. And yes, I did understand what it was about. But desperately looking for words in the most remote corners of your brain is tiring - and also highly motivating, because I'm realising that I can actually find them.
I will try and update this blog on a regular basis. Promise. Until then, مع سلامة.
good for you caroline to blog beirut. it brings back so many memories of algiers 1990, especially traffic description. cheers - wale
ReplyDelete...it took me 50 years to figure out what scones are... love your writing. will pass on link to friends if that's alright with you. give us more!
ReplyDelete